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Suave Gents: Herman Byström

suavebynature:

I had an opportunity to speak with a young sartorial minded gent, Mr. Herman Bystrom.  You may recognize him from his blog the Sartorial Doctrine.  I was specifically intrigued by Herman’s sense of aesthetics and culture that come together for a very contemporary, but classic look. Herman has a unique vision and style with touched of the sartorial whims of the classic gentleman before us, that many of us use for inspiration.  Mr. Bystrom has turned himself into an inspiration to others by letting us into his vision through the Sartorial Doctrine.  We take a deeper look here.
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What intrigues you about the whole menswear world?
It’s a hard question really, but I really enjoy a high level of craftsmanship combined with clothing that fit well. For me it’s almost erotic to see a well-made jacket shoulder, preferably Neapolitan style (spalla camicia). Also, I really enjoy watching people who are passionate in what they do, no matte if their style is leaning towards street or a more classic menswear approach.

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Justin from Suavebynature interviewed me.

Anonymous asked: I know you've mentioned Finamore shirting in the past, what's so great about it?

Yes I have! 

It’s all about the details really, their shirts feature lots of handmade details(buttonholes, sleevehead and much more). The thing that I really appreciate about Finamore shirting is their collars, they are just outstanding, it’s fascinating how a simple collar can add so much character. There’s a great deal of things that are great about Finamore shirts, you should buy one and you’ll understand what I’m saying!  

Anonymous asked: What brand would you recommend for shirts with a cutaway collar? I tried suitsupply but the quality is lacking. Around >£100 is ideal. Canali?

Alessandro Gherardi, for sure! Best shirts in that price range. Gorgeous collars and their shirts also feature some handmade details.

ironoxides asked: I like the name Herman; I like names in general. But I'm curious how you feel about your name? I know some love theirs and others have trouble, but I enjoy learning what things people end up associating with their name

I have to say that the question is a bit weird but I’ll roll with it. When I was younger I didn’t like my name very much, it’s a bit old fashioned and I kind of thought of a Nazi when I heard my own name.

Nowadays when I’m a bit more mature I feel more confident and therefore I feel comfortable with my name. A good thing is that people seem to remember my name more easily, I guess that can be both a good and a bad thing as well though. 

My parents are not Nazis, they did not name me after Hermann Göring, I can assure you that. I guess it could be a lot worse, I would feel a LOT worse if my name was Dick.

danielcustard asked: Hello Herman. I have a question about your trousers (specifically the incotex trousers as an example). I have seen them cuffed and wondered if the pants you ordered came pre-cuffed or do you just roll them up when you wear them? Reason I ask is because I've been to places such as yoox, mr.porter, and far-fetch and every now and then see trousers that are already cuffed on the models they show. And when yours are cuffed, they looked as if they came that way.

Trousers from brands like Incotex and PT01 usually come unhemmed, meaning that there is lots of excess fabric. For me this is a must, it’s really hard to find trousers that fit perfectly off-the-rack and therefore unhemmed trousers allows you to tailor the pants the way you like them(with cuffs or without, cuffs require more fabric though). 

There are however trousers that come cuffed which can be good if they fit you perfectly, but that usually isn’t the case when it comes to pants. So my suggestion is that you buy a pair of unhemmed trousers and then ask a tailor to alter them the way you want them.  If you’re a tall and skinny guy like myself I’d recommend PT01, Incotex don’t really offer trousers that are as fitted.

Hope this helps! 

Anonymous asked: From my perspective, you're the well dressed guy around here. Your big point - great physics. That with your sense of style is a bomb. Keep it up.

Thank you very much, mate! 

I don’t know if I can fully agree with you but I’m glad that you think that I’m that well dressed. Hopefully I can keep it up, I’ll stay away from the gelato this summer(perhaps I’ll have a few at Pitti Uomo though). 

kulaks86 asked: Knowing from your blog that you often wear the sunglasses with yellow frame with dark green lenses. I also always see those real solid well-dressers like Santo Barillà, Alessandro Squarzi, Dennis Frison wore this style of sunglasses consistently. What style is it? Which brand do you recommend to buy one? Thanks.

Mine are from Epos Milano(the model is called Polluce), but there are several other options out there. I’ve seen similar styles from Bob Sdrunk, Moscot and Cutler & Gross to name a few.

Good luck!